EV Parts Suppliers Losing Business

For at least a few decades the DIY crowd has been purchasing parts to build their own electric vehicles. The reason we build our own EVs are the demand for EVs and lack of supply from manufacturers. This is changing now as more electric cars are being manufactured and the vehicles produced are being met with great consumer acceptance.

The availability of EVs that are ready -to drive-after signing your life away to a loan - is leading to a reduction in sales for the mom and pop type shops that have sold to the hobbyists for much long time. Though it may not cause all of these businesses to fail, some surely will.

Some EV component suppliers have lost around 50% of their recent peak sales and are hanging on by a thread . How will their weakened state affect this industry? Well, as the I read on a forum post from a Chief engineer of Soliton motor controllers {I'm paraphrasing} -the way to make a small fortune (in this EV market) is to spend a large fortune developing a controller that will be copied and sold (at far lower prices) by China and we will lose significant portions of our business to them. Fortunately, this is not the case for motors and the reputation for Chinese-made motor controllers is not that great. Buy American made whenever possible and you'll get a much better product.

There has been a great emergence of new competition to the existing suppliers of electric vehicle parts, such as : Emotorwerks who is known for creating an amazing open source electric vehicle battery charger for a small portion of the price of their competitors. Since they are making a profit off of this, it makes me wonder why the other companies charge so much; Jack Rickard's EVTV site and store- he's known for product testing and his show that delivers a wide range of info on DIY EV conversions through articles and videos; there are others out there, but maybe they're not worth mentioning. The older ma & pa EV parts sellers aren't very competitive due to their lack of providing the other half of what people need in order to build an EV, which is know-how, as well as not creating/finding innovative products that either didn't exist before (open source charger/controller) or were hard to find elsewhere (JLD404 Ah meter).

Electric vehicles are definitely here to stay, but the shops of yesterday can no longer rely on their reputation from years past. Staying competitive means developing and finding new products that solve problems for customers and providing written and recorded media that demonstrate how to build and modify EVs and even talks about the general EV industry itself, which includes talking about manufactured EVs.

Past, Present and Future Rechargeable Battery Technology

     We are indebted to Alessandro Volta, for making the first electrochemical cell. His zinc and copper battery with a salt water electrolyte and paved the way for much of the portable power that we rely upon extensively throughout our lives. Not long after his inventing of the battery came the world's first electric vehicle.

     The lead acid battery has been around since 1859 and makes up a large portion of battery sales today. The weight of the battery is its biggest drawback, but they can produce a lot of power for their weight and cost. Lead acid batteries have been used in stationary power, as starter batteries for internal combustion engines and as traction batteries in electric vehicles.

     In the early 1900's Nickel-Iron batteries were used in vehicles and in stationary power systems. This type of cell produces low voltage, is quite heavy and is still used today in solar backup systems and in some other applications where weight and low charge/discharge rates are acceptable. One of the greatest aspects of this type of battery is its lifespan, which is up to 30-50 years.

    Nickel-Cadmium cells were first developed in the early 1900's. With higher energy-density than lead acid batteries, they were favored in certain applications and have found their way into hand-held electronics, power tools, electric vehicles, starting circuits and standby power.

Nickel-Metal Hydride cells came into being in the late 60's and interest in them began developing in the 70's. Being very similar to NiCad batteries, they made their way into use in portable applications, ranging from satellites to electric vehicles to portable music players. They still prove valuable in some of these applications.

Lithium Iron Phosphate cells have enabled an explosive growth in electric vehicles (and other applications) since their development in 1996, owing to their safety and higher energy-density compared to other chemistries. Problems with LiFePO4 cells include balancing, over charging and over discharging cells; there is a lack of proper products to help keep the batteries healthy. However, some LiFePO4 cells are very high quality and require virtually no management outside of the charger's programming (to stop charging at the right voltage) and low voltage cutoff circuits that often are built into the products using the cells.

Lithium Ion cells were first developed in the 70's and paved the way for many similar Lithium-based cells to come into existence. Li Ion cells are prone to thermal runaway, which, as can be seen on Youtube, can be fun or problematic. Despite the problems with thermal runaway, the cells have transformed radio controlled toy markets, electric vehicle markets and mobile communications.

Lithium-Sulfur batteries are a recent development (probably post-2007) and are not yet ready for consumers. They are a likely successor of Lithium Ion and Iron Phosphate cells due to their higher energy-density and lower cost. These cells depart in the way they are constructed in the type of electrolyte used, which is solid instead of the usual liquid. We may see these cells hitting the market in 3-5 years, which will enable yet another boom in electric vehicle production.


Refillable batteries are an awesome new development and great departure from typical electrochemical cell constructions. Instead of recharging batteries like we do now, researchers at MIT are developing a way to change out depleted electrodes and electrolyte in a liquid form. Though many electrolytes used in typical cells is liquid, the electrodes themselves are solid and not easily replaced, which is why we recharge them. This new cell type could lead to a major transformation of the way we use batteries. Gas stations could be retrofitted to hold tanks full of the charged slurry necessary to replace the slurry in a consumer's depleted battery slurry tank.

In short, batteries are getting lighter, easier and more capable to filling the needs of an increasingly more mobile world.


     

International Electric Motorcycle Club- EMC^2

     I decided to write this little piece to inform the world that I am officially launching an international motorcycle club, which aims to promote the adoption of alternative energies by enhancing the sense of community and support for EV riders. From this humble beginning, I'd like to see this organization grow exponentially, hence its name (a close spin off of Einstein's E=MC^2) EMCsquared or Electric Motorcycle Club Squared.

     The main goals are:
1. Recruit members- get in on this EV action
2. Organize all electric road trip to Sturgis, SD
3. Bring back a privatized version of California's old "cash for clunkers program", which lost funding and is desperately needed to help control air quality.


The ultimate goal is to ride and have fun in the most environmentally friendly ways possible.
There was some thought about referring to it as an electric motorcycle gang, but I'm not so sure we'll be causing that kind of racket.
Check out the website at:
http://www.emcsquares.com/  -the website is still underway... I get busy with other things .

Update11/16/13:
I have decided to build a trike instead of pulling a battery trailer, as I already have many of the parts and I wondered how I the smaller motor in my motorcycle would fare on such long periods- the damn thing can only do 8 horsepower continuously, which will be exceeded on steep hills and when wind kicks up. It also goes toward my goal of a "no excuses electric vehicle".

I have the transaxle and rear chassis of a 71 VW Beetle and will be mating them to the front of my Honda Interceptor.

Electric Vehicle Public Charging Problems

     I was really excited to get my electric conversion on the road and, like many others, I built a car with very limited range. It's not that I need more range but that I would like to be able to charge at public stations just in case I need to. Presently, I get between 11 and 20 miles per charge in my converted VW Beetle, which is enough for my regular errand-running routine. Sometimes, however, I get an itch to drive my EV to places that I just can't reach unless I have access to an outlet. This led me to go on a search for plugs in Riverside, CA outside of my typical radius. I went to several websites that list EV charging stations and noted the addresses; I also remember seeing EV charge station signage near freeway exits in certain downtown areas, so I f thought I might just find some signs by driving around (I had to drive my Chevy Sonic for this drive, as I knew I was not guaranteed a charge).

     On my journey, I visited 3 locations I noted from different websites (afdc.energy.gov , City of Riverside , among others), which would have been useful to me. The first station I went to visit only had an approximate location instead of an address and this turned out to be a wild goose chase, as I found nothing after circling the area several times. The second was also nowhere to be found, even thought there was a real address, there just wasn't a public charging station anywhere a driver could be expected to find. The third place I visited claimed to have level one and level two charging, so I thought I would find a charging "station", but the elusive station was never found. The only hint of charging ability was 2 electrical outlets near parking spaces with absolutely no signage indicating that the spaces were for EVs.

     I took pictures (my daughter ca along to help) of the outlets I found so that I could inquire with the parking structure owner or manager as to whether I would be cited for stealing electricity were I to plug in. Finding someone to answer those questions seems impossible, as I just got shuffled from person to person, nobody even knowing that vehicles could be powered fro electricity. I really do think they (parking patrol, security, parking structure manager) would cite me for plugging in, so until I see a sign saying that it's reserved for EVs, I won't even try.

     My real world experience shows that public charging, even in a big city like Riverside (which makes many claims about being an "innovative city" and falls short here), is not reliable. I have found places to charge, however, at my local community college (Riverside Community College) and I did get permission from facilities maintenance to plug in my electric motorcycle while I was attending classes there. Another time, I ran out of battery power conveniently near Riverside Carburetor and Electric, whose owner let me charge for a bit (but was hesitant, worrying slightly I would run up his bill) and whose mechanics were having some fun checking out my electric car-they'd never seen one before. I only charged for 30 minutes, which got me a bit further down the road, but was not how I planned on spending my day.

note  *plugging in a level 1 charger for a couple hours won't cause any noticeable increase in electricity usage, we're talking pennies*

     Before you buy an EV or convert your vehicle, make sure you get something with enough range or make sure that your city as the charging structure it claims or you'll be in between a rock and a hard place. Make sure you know the difference between EV charging levels 1,2 and 3 and which you need. Though I found level one charging, at the expense of begging, level two was nowhere to be found in my area. The case could be incorrect information, and the elusive chargers may be out there somewhere. The people listing these chargers obviously don't need them (or have no way of verifying chargers), so they probably don't understand how important it is to those who do drive EVs. Even if the chargers do exist, there are at least 50 electric vehicles per charger, so good luck getting there before the Chevy Volts and Nissan Leaves (Leafs, I know).


tags: EV charging stations in Riverside CA, EV charging levels, electric vehicle charging station

DIY Electric Motorcycle VS Manufactured Electric Motorcycle

     You've decided it's time to get an electric motorcycle; maybe you're not sure whether to buy one that's ready to ride from a factory or convert one yourself. In the article, we'll examine the key areas that affect rider enjoyment and usefulness, which are performance, cost and options. I am going to assume that the average rider wants the fastest motorcycle with the longest range for the price and, of course, reliability. Sure, some people will accept a bike with a top speed of 45 mph and 25 miles range, but those specs don't appeal much to the masses in the United States .

     It's important to note that all production electric motorcycle manufacturers are new to building vehicles and even though they may have an awesome team of engineers, production bikes will invariably have problems (part failures and software issues). I say this from experience. Also, a one off electric vehicle may experience problems of its own, but since you built the bike from parts available, it will most likely be much easier to diagnose and fix.

    There are now quite a few electric motorcycles available (of which I have ridden 2, well, one was a scooter)-Brammo, Lightning, Vectrix and Zero. The cost of each bike varies from about $9000-$39,000. The top speed of the available bikes range fro 60mph to 200+ mph (yeah, 200mph, but at a cost of $40,000) and acceleration ranges from zero to 60 in 15 seconds, to 0-60 in about 3 seconds. I caution anyone against financing an electric motorcycle unless it hauls ass, can carry two people and gets more than 60 miles range, because life can change so quickly and the last thing you want is a motorcycle that you can barely use. First-time riders are most likely to make this mistake, thinking that the performance is good enough, until they get a need for speed, a girlfriend or a job too far away.

     I am betting that most people will be in the price range of the Brammo Enteria, listed at $7995+taxes and other fees (probably interest) and the total cost should land somewhere around $10,000. For that ten Gs, you get up to 42 miles range, up to 60 mph and no passenger space, which seems like a lot of cash to spend on something you can't take your girlfriend out on. A serious electric (that will get you noticed) motorcycle is going to cost over $15,000. Though the motorcycles maybe worth every penny, not everyone can plunk down that kind of dough.

     For a motorcycle conversion, you get to choose from a wide variety of available motorcycles motors, controllers, batteries and chargers, which means that you can anticipate the possibility for changes in your life by choosing  large motorcycle with seating for two and enough room for a large motor, controller and traction batteries. I would suggest a motorcycle like the Honda Interceptor or Goldwing or a Kawasaki Ninja (I wish I would have done a Goldwing instead of my Interceptor). Your conversion kit will probably cost under or around $6,000, give or take, depending on a number of factors. That $6,000 would include the donor bike and materials and supplies if your conversion goes like mine. The following is a break-down of those costs:
Motor-$800ish  Advanced DC k91-4003
Controller $1000ish Curtis 1221C
Batteries $2,000ish  CALB 40Ah -60Ah (72-120 volts) or GBS
Charger $600ish  Elcon 1500watt
Donor $1000ish Decent price for a used bike with a poor running engine or no engine
Add in some miscellaneous wiring and a some instrumentation (JLD 404 Intelligent Ah meter $60).

     The results of the above parts would produce a motorcycle capable of over 75mph, with very good acceleration and a max range of about 45 miles.  The voltage would be 120 (high compared to other most conversions), at amps 400 and you would have a no excuses motorcycle with room for another rider. With some looking around, you could get used parts for less (I got my motor for $500, bike for $700 and controller-just don't buy from China, you'll be glad you didn't (except the batteries, most of which come from China . Your peak power would be around 50hp and you'll have very little maintenance. Add another thousand or two to the price tag of your conversion for either custom body work or more batteries for more range. For distances greater than 40 miles, you'd probably want to get a larger motor than the K91-4003, as heat will build up pretty quickly and exceed its thermal rating, especially where there are hills and head winds.

Tools and skills for DIY EV building are important considerations, as tooling can run up huge bills and skills can take time to obtain. It's a great idea to inventory your tools and skills to make sure you're able to do what is necessary for a conversion or ground-up build. After my Honda had all the gasoline engine-related parts removed, there wasn't much work to be done and I had a ridable EV in about two days. I have since spent may hours refining my original build, but I accomplished my project with no past experience, a couple hundred dollars worth of tools and   tons of "no matter what" attitude. 

http://www.kta-ev.com/?Click=2556


update: a couple years after original post-


There are a flood of new electric motorcycles coming to market:

Zero R (other models are available that are equally cool)
 I've only test ridden the Zero R, which was more fun than I though it would be. I rode up to Southern California's highway 18 from the Zero dealership in San Bernardino and it hauled ass up and down the mountain. I stopped for a hot tea and rode down the mountain one-handed, while sipping my fucking teat the whole way down highway 18. It also has the same feature that my home-built conversion had, storage where a gasoline tank would normally reside, albeit theirs didn't have as much space as mine. Range was great, having not held back the entire way, I took the bike with 50% capacity and traveled all the way to Crestline and back to Douglas Motorcycles in San Bernardino with 18% capacity left. People stopped me along the way to ask questions and I accelerated hard for them. I am throttle happy anyway, but I really had to show these interested folks that electrics just aren't slow. After my Inceterceptor got its Soliton Jr. upgrade, it performed nearly as well as the Zero, except that my bike topped out at about 87mph (allegedly, I never tried really hard to go any faster though)and the Zero got up to around 105 (allegedly). I say allegedly because I won't admit to breaking any laws on a public space, I'd be damned that they'd surely accept that as a way to send me a ticket via email.

Brutus makes, in my opinion, the most serious competitor to gasoline bike, period, I mean comma, as all other electric motorcycles look and feel cheap- like scooters. I wouldn't judge someone's badassness by the ride they ride, but these chicken shit electric scooters (Brammo, Zero, and all the others, even the Mission R) make any hard-ass look like a drippin' wet pussy.
Brutus has several different models and what I like most is that they're using the same motor that I used in my conversion Advanced DC, that's right, DC motors in a production electric motorcycle. That takes some balls, since everyone talks about efficiency this and AC motors that. Well, even though AC motors are supposed to be less expensive to produce, it doesn't actually turn out that way. believe me, I have been connecting with everybody in the industry and nobody's prices beat DC Series-wound motors and controllers. We are only a few short years away from being able to find controllers that allow regenerative braking in DC systems (Kelly claims to have something, but I don't trust them and don't have the finds to find out). Brutus V9 looks like a Harley or other badass bike (please note that I have no respect for Harley, as they produce crap and they are coming to the electric bike market way too late to get any credit from me. I now own my first and last Harley Davidson, Even though the Brutus V9 is out of my price range @ $32,490., I would be a proud owner. I especially like that it seems like a bike that I can modify, unlike these bitch-ass Brammos and Zeros, oh, and Harley's electric bitch bike. I'll toast to Brutus while saying Fuck You Harley Davidson. The range, power and style of Brutus' electric motorcycles is what motorcyclists really want.

Mission R:

When they first produced this motorcycle, they stated that they were only doing so for research and development purposes, but now I see that they are selling it and saying that it's the best electric motorcycle out there. Judging from its price and performance, it cost much more than it should and if you want something that stands up to it, just pay tens-of-thousands less and buy Richard's Lightning. Fuck Richard, he's the dick head that sold me junk Thunder-Sky batteries and provided just about the worst customer service I had ever received (almost as bad as Verizon). I really hope you don't buy either of these motorcycles, because there's nothing in them except unfounded pride. If you have $40,000 and want a badass motorcycle, I can help you build a custom one that perfectly suits your needs. It is entirely possible for you to do this on your own, even without my help, provided you're not as mentally retarded as the general population (who don't even know what an EV is).

Lightning:

I mention all electric motorcycles, even dick head Richard's lightning. It does command respect, as its price-point and performance are in line with what we want, but the styling isn't there. Maybe that's just me not being into the whole sport bike look, but if you're going to make an electric motorcycle like this, make is special. It just looks like any other sport bike minus the exhaust pipe and inexperienced rider going too fast for his skill level. I'm not putting up a pic for this bike, you can thank dickrick for that.

Voxan, actually did well with their styling, as I believe it makes a statement. "Suck it", might be the words coming out of the mouths of the French as they scream down the road on this beast. Still, the range, top speed and acceleration of this bike are less than I'd expect from another expensive bike, but they are within the realm of acceptability to probably most people. I'll find out pricing on this bike as soon as I can, but you'll probably need to go to France to order one and that's going to add to the already high cost.

Oil-To the Last Drop

     I recently had the urge to research how much oil is left in the earth, based on what the experts think. I just wanted to read varied opinions before forming any of my own. I then began to think that it may be wise to do more research and check these numbers against figures such as the total volume of the earth, and several of its constituents, to make sure that everyone (or almost everyone) is on the same page as far as the size of the earth and the theoretically possible amounts of various resources therein.
     Though I have not nearly finished this work, I have made a strikingly important observation about what may happen (or be happening now) when the oil companies realize they have nearly squeezed the last drop of oil from the earth. They might try to hide the facts regarding how much is left. I sometimes tell people that we will be out of oil in 5-10 years to see how they react. Some people think that oil prices will go up to $10 or more a gallon. This is not the case. The market will not bear such high prices and people will seek alternatives, just as they have in response to each rise in gas prices.
     There are alternatives, which will be exploited based on necessity. The truth is that corporations tell major lies to protect profits. The goal of oil and other companies is to get the highest return on their investments. In thinking of all the money tied up in oil extraction and transportation, it's easy to see that the best return on investment would come from steadily removing all recoverable oil from the earth until whatever is left is too expensive to chase down (at which point they would already have peaked at the price they can sell, based on what the markets will bear). Meanwhile, oil companies would be padding their own product transition by  readying themselves to supply the next major source(s) of energy.
     Another likely goal of those in the oil business is to get people used to paying the highest amount possible for oil, so when the time comes for a different energy source, they can still make large profits. It also makes sense to keep consumers in the dark so that they have little time to plan on what type of energy they feel comfortable with as an alternative; if we don't think we're running out of oil, we won't be pressed to find alternatives. Educated consumers give rise to a harder sale. I, for example, don't like what corporations are supplying, so I make my own vehicles (ok, I do own a Ford , but I bought it used so pitooy). BP estimates known reserves to amount  about 40 years worth of oil at current consumption rates. It is very important to consider the words used by the BP, "at current consumption rates". Consider the impact on consumption rates from emerging markets; consumption will increase greatly as countries like India, China , Brazil and others grow their emerging middle classes. If the world were to see just 2-3 more countries comparable in size and oil consumption to the USA, the estimated reserves would be depleted much sooner than 2040. How about 2025?. The current consumption rates also ignore anticipated population growth, which are expected to go from about 6.9 billion to over 8 billion by 2040. With this much discrepancy (and maybe more that I did not mention), it is my rough estimation that there are only 7-12 years of oil that can be recovered and sold at a bearable market value. If this is true, then who else might want to help keep the cat in the bag? Everyone invested in big oil has reason to ride this greasy wave until it is exhausted.
     There may be more to what is going on than meets the eye when gas prices change. The only way for oil companies  to know how much you'll pay for fuel is to increase its cost until you (the consumer) buy less. The rising and falling of the prices also get you to accept higher and higher prices, by giving you temporary high prices to compare to the relatively low prices that emerge (and people are thankful {but it's relative thankfullness} when prices fall just a few percent). I have tracked a direct relationship in the rise of gas prices to the sales of electric vehicles (EV) and EV parts, which proves that when gas prices rise, people look for alternatives, until prices fall.
     There is also a possible element of control within the fluctuating prices of oil. If reserves are exhausted in an area (like Japan), it may be beneficial to force people to use alternatives at a significantly increased cost. This shows where people will naturally go after oil, and helps create a target energy to profit from. We already see oil companies invest in alternative energy such as wind and solar, which is a sign of the depletion of oil reserves. A major concern of mine is Chevron's "We Agree" campaign, which is a persuasion technique involving the use of Neuro Linguistic Programming (NLP) techniques. People are more likely to accept what you say if you begin with the statement "I agree". I would add to their campaign a gas pump shaped like an Aunt Jemima syrup bottle. I agree, and so does Auntie Jemima.
     I would much rather ride a cow to work than finance (or even outright buy) an oil eating, inefficient, wear prone, loud, service engine soon blinking, biannual smog technician visiting, tax serving, replacement part needing, carbon dioxide belching, carbon monoxide leaking, oxides of nitrogen spewing, damn internal combustion engine vehicle.
For some specific numbers relating to oil reserves and projections, visit http://makewealthhistory.org/2010/06/11/how-much-oil-is-there-left-really/

Your Electric Vehicle's Cost To Charge

     It's often touted that you'll drive an electric vehicle for pennies per mile and though for some this is true, your bill may be different. Electric companies often charge for services according to usage (total use and/or use during peak times), which is a tiered structure. Under tier 1, for example, I pay .1035 cents per  kWh ($.10 to round it off), but if I use enough electricity, some of the electricity I buy will be billed under the Tier 2  schedule, which is billed at ~$0.16 per kWh. That's about 60% more than tier 1.

     Sometimes it's your air conditioner that causes your usage to increase, but for EV drivers, it's that 2-12 hours of recharging that tips us over. My EV has a tiny battery pack that charges in only an hour after short trips, so it doesn't really contribute much to my overall bill. If I a using much electricity, my EV will use about $7 of electricity over 30 days, but if I can keep my usage low, I'll only pay $4.8 per month. For me, it's barely noticeable, but for those with larger packs and hungrier chargers the difference could be much, much greater.

     Plugging in your vehicle and charging during the night could help you save. You can find out your rates and peak times by visiting your local utility company's website.

Oil Change Every 3000 Miles?

     Transportation is so expensive these days that it pays to stay informed on the latest and greatest info, so you don't spend unnecessarily. I have come across many people that still think that oil needs to be changed every 3,000 miles to ensure engine longevity.The truth is that the 3,000 mile suggestion was issued back when internal combustion engine technology was still associated with carburetors and less advanced technology that employed in vehicles today.

     The introduction of fuel injection played a major role in increasing the efficiency of the engine (more complete combustion), which resulted in much less fuel remaining in the combustion chamber to leak past the piston rings into the crankcase. When unburned fuel seeps into the crankcase, it mixes with the oil and reduces its effectiveness, which does cause increased wear on the engine. Less fuel mixing in with engine oil results in longer oil life.

     Oil has additives such as detergents and anti-foaming agents which work to keep dirt suspended and prevent the oil from foaming as it's agitated in the engine. Many engine management systems in  late model vehicles are capable of letting the driver know when the oil is ready for being changed, but there are ways that you can tell for yourself.

• If the oil looks "dirty", it only means that the oil is working to suspend particles of dirt and that is what you want. Of course, freshly changed oil may not be visibly dirty, so this property doesn't tell you whether the oil needs changed, just that it's either working or it's new.
• After running the engine under load and at normal operating temperature, quickly check the engine oil dipstick and look for foaming (bubbles), which will quickly settle once load is removed. 
• Follow manufacturer's suggestion, which can often be found on a sticker in the engine compartment. I owned a 1986 Toyota Truck, which was one of the early fuel injection models and Toyota recommended an oil change at 10,000 miles under good conditions and 5,000 miles under harsh conditions. Good conditions for an engine are freeway miles in little variation in whether year around. Harsh conditions are those in which the vehicle is idling (running with no load) for extended periods of time like that you'd experience in city driving/stop & go traffic. 
• Some mechanical or electrical problems can cause an excess of fuel to enter into the combustion chamber, whether the engine is running or not and it may be enough to cause the oil to smell like gasoline. Oil typically has a consistent smell after it's been in an engine for a few hundred miles and anything apart from that could be cause for concern. A blown head gasket can also contaminate engine oil and make it appear foamy (often referred to as a milkshake-kind of appearance). 

     Just a little bit of knowledge could save you from having to skip that extra morning Mocha Latte

so you can afford to change your oil before it's due. You'll also be doing your part to reduce fossil fuel consumption.

Note: That used oil that must be taken to those free oil collection centers is often used as fuel in large ships out at sea. The ships aren't allowed to burn the oil too close to land, but far out at sea, anything flies.

Vehicles That Are Changing The World

     For far too long the automotive industry has been plagued by minimal improvements in design and fuel types used. Alas, the world is changing and geeks have begun to build cars. Now that Silicon Valley has its hands in the auto-pot, watch out world!

      One of the greatest leaps in automotive tech has been made by the company created by Elon Musk, Tesla Motors. This company is manufacturing zero (tailpipe) emissions electric vehicles, like the Roadster, that run like scalded cats when you put your foot to the floor. And instead of that low grumble we often associate with fast cars, all your hear is a slight whine of the electric motor and maybe the screeching of the tires when its driver is showing off. Tesla didn't stop at the Roadster, they have the Model S and X to hitting streets soon, to eventually be followed by a smaller sedan in the $30,000-$40,000 range.

     This next company, Lit Motors, is changing the game in even bigger ways by introducing a motorcycle unlike any other. The C-1, also dubbed "your rolling smart phone", is a fully enclosed motorcycle that drives and handles more like a car. It has electronically controlled gyroscopes that help is stand on its two wheels even in the rigorous conditions motorists face on the road. No more triple tree, like on conventional motorcycles, the C-1 is steered in a very unique and inspiring fashion. It's touted to be capable of 100 mph and its battery pack can power its dual hub motors for up to 200 miles. You'd think an expensive price tag would accompany such an exotic bike, but it's starting price is only $24,000, which made me do a back flip when I found out. That price can be lowered to around $19,000 with California tax incentives.

     As if driving on the ground with an electric power train weren't enough, Pipistrel is making waves in the air with its Taurus Electro G2, which is  "the first and the only electric 2-seat aeroplane in serial production available on the market". While its flight time ranges from about 5-17 minutes, which doesn't see like much, it's all accomplished on electric power. The idea that such a plane is possible isn't so new; it's really special because, though, it is now available in serial production.

The Brutus electric motorcycles is offering motorcycles that don't look like scooters, finally! A real electric cruiser, the Brutus V9 has the style that grabs attention of Harley lovers, but doesn't have that ear bleeding rumble that awakes neighbors and scares babies. You could ride this thing with your sleeping infant onboard, were it not for those damn child height/age restrictions and the babe would continue to sleep.

     Innovative vehicles like those mentioned here mark a turning point in transportation globally. Never before have consumers had access to such a wide range of electric vehicles at such affordable prices. You no longer need to be dreaming to buy a high performance electric machine like the Tesla Model S for (starting) just $52,400. I've already pinched myself after leaving the Tesla sales room in Santa Monica, and it sure did hurt. There are many vehicles that are breaking ground in other areas, so this is no time to be stuck in a technologically lacking hole. The more you read, the more you'll stay informed and that means that you may find your dream car in production near you.


    

Problems With LiFePO4 Batteries and Battery Management Systems

      We've entered a new era in energy storage for automotive applications, which used to be burdened by the old, heavy and low cycle life lead acid batteries by the creation of the Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries (LifePO4). The coming of these new lightweight and high energy-density cells has not been without problems. The cells to suffer when they are charged to an excess voltage or discharged excessively.

     There are two streams of thought amongst LifePO4 battery users:

1. Users that say a Battery Management System  (BMS) is necessary
2. Those who say a BMS is not necessary

      There are also folks who have no clue, but are persuaded by one of the two main groups at some point. I struggled long before deciding to try my first large lithium pack with a BMS, thinking that I could take it off and maybe sell it if it didn't live up to the hype. There are so any accounts on each side of the debate that a novice who needs a LiFePO4 battery pack is in a dire pickle. If there are two equally sized sides proclaiming opposite requirements, how can you justify significantly increasing the cost of your project when there is no sound advice? Should you take the advice of the manufacturer or other retailers who definitely stand to profit from the suggestion? It's worth noting that there is also a side that profits from advising against the use of a BMS: EVTV sells products to support the bottom-balancing of cells, which conveniently costs about the same as a BMS.

     I have researched these questions and examined the motives of each side, attempting to be as unbiased as possible. I also purchased several packs from different manufacturers. The only necessary test is to use these new cells without a BMS and see what happens. I'd like to point out that I am not well equipped to do any optimal tests, but I do have an understanding of the limitations of the cells, which I acquired from reading everything I can find and killing a few cells along my way. I am really only able to test the cells in real world situations, as traction packs or auxiliary power supplies.

     I have noticed through using my cells that each manufacturer's cells behave a bit differently (as could be expected). The difference to me really seemed to be quality and consistency of the cells; Thunder-Sky cells showed much more than 5% difference in capacity in cells purchased in the same batch. GBS cells appeared to be more closely matched than Thunder-Sky, but still not to an acceptable level. CALB seem to be the most consistently matched cells- I've been using 36 of their 40 Ah cell in series for my VW Beetle traction pack without a BMS and I see very little imbalancing. The Thunder-Sky cells were so bad that I could no longer use them as traction batteries, instead placing the in service as UPS backup batteries and other low current applications where they seem to work much better.

   All of the LiFePO4 cells that I have used seem to become more out of balance as your current demand increases, which can be attributed to the internal resistance. The cells may be the same capacity at low current draw, but those having higher internal resistance will dissipate some of their capacity as heat as load is increased to that of traction pack levels (I am pulling up to 300 battery amps in my EV). The problem I can thus see is inconsistencies of internal cell resistance, which is much less of a problem in my CALB cells, but it's still noticeable.

    My observations lead me to believe that the cause of the internal resistance inconsistency is a lack of proper quality control in the manufacturing process, which is we hobbyists are experiencing in differing degrees . I don't doubt that the manufacturers are trying to make the cells better, though  I also think that we could do without BMSs if they would tighten up their operations, even at the risk of costlier cells. If y theory is correct, the problem for hobbyists lies in not being able to predict which batch of cells is going to work and which ones won't. A BMS will only accommodate so much of a difference in cell performance, so the worst cells I have used (the Thunder-Sky) are so far apart that a BMS won't help. Instead, they are doomed to service in UPS power supplies (leaving me frustrated at the huge cost for poor performance). Please don't take this article to mean that all Thunder-Sky cells are bad, I am just observing that mine did not perform well.

    I bet some people are wondering, in response to my theory, why manufacturers are using BMSs if they do have better quality control for the cells manufactured for their cars. I think the answer is that they have to employ a certain amount of redundancies into their vehicles to reach compliance with vehicle standards and avoid lawsuits.

    Even though these cells are wrought with problems, they are still much better than lead acid and I now consider the best LifePO4 cells to be the only choice for use as traction batteries.



Notes:
Before using any of the cells that I bought, I did either top or bottom balance the prior to use. All I can say about bottom is that it's a bad idea for most people, as it's far too easy to kill cells. Top balancing is the most practical way if you have some means of protecting the cells from over charge (either a smart charger that cuts off at high voltage cutoff or an intelligent Ah meter from lightobject.com or an actual BMS).

Over discharging cells does not always kill them, but it does reduce their performance in terms of capacity and cycle life. I discharged a few of my GBS 20Ah cells to .5 volts each and all but 2 of them are still in service and have no glaring problems since. I charge and discharge them at currents lower than 1C.

EV Conversion-Choosing a Motor Controller

                                            A motor controller can make or break your project, literally.
The last thing that you want to find out is that your motor controller can't do what you need it to or that it's actually not able to perform up to your real needs. Many people have little or no sense of how much power is needed to make the vehicle match their desired driving habits and many who have already converted a vehicle to electric lie about how well their vehicles perform. Be informed and get the right parts the first time, or suffer spending more for inferior performance. Please note that this article will be discussing controllers meant for series wound DC traction motors.

        There are now several manufacturers making EV motor controllers, some of which have the bare minimum capabilities to function and others are so feature rich that they could (nearly) pass for what General Motors might install in a vehicle if they used series DC motors. Some of the most well known controllers are Zilla, Soliton, DC Power Raptor, WarP-Drive, Curtis, and Kelly; not mentioned are controllers that don't produce enough power to get a car up to freeway speed or are not well know enough at the time of this writing. Most of the manufacturers produce one or more controllers that satisfy the need for a low bill of materials and others may appear inexpensive, but have hidden costs and complexities.

      Your first decision to to determine how much horsepower (HP) you can afford and whether you'll want to upgrade your system at a later time without spending a lot of money. I suggest purchasing the biggest, baddest controller you can afford, one that's capable of pushing more power than you'll need to (unless you're drag racing  and will squeeze every last bit of power out no matter what). By purchasing the biggest, baddest controller, you avoid the common mistake of building an under powered EV and not being able to afford to do anything about it. Controllers like the Zilla 1K HV, WarP-Drive, Soliton & Soliton Jr., offer impressive voltage ranges, current outputs, and are not very expensive considering what they do. For vehicles under 2500 lbs, you should have your eye on controllers that put out a minimum of 125 HP. For vehicles between 2500 and 3500, your controller should put out 200+ HP. Vehicles over 3500 lbs. will need a controller capable of 250+ horsepower. Another way of looking at HP requirements is, for every 1000 pounds of vehicle, you should figure about 60+ HP. This will make sure that you're not putting extra stress on components when you are driving in harsh or tougher than normal conditions.

      Also consider a controller that supports liquid cooling. Though many EVers love to brag about the absence of liquids coolant and oil in their vehicles, liquid cooling can help the electronics in your controller last longer (the Soliton Jr controller and controllers like it, will not fail as a result of the cooling system failing and to avoid failure, these controllers automatically derate output once the temperature of the device reaches a certain temperature). In the Soliton user manual, it is said that for every 50 degrees F you cool your electronics, you roughly double their lives. If the controller doesn't support liquid cooling, it may not be worth trying to add it later on. The liquid needs to pass near the parts in the power stage of the device in order to be most effective. Liquid cooling can also be used to shuffle heat from your controller and into other areas of the vehicle such as the batteries or cabin. I bought a cooling system meant for computers and installed it on my Soliton Jr., then routed the heat into the cabin to defrost the rear window.

      Hidden costs will surface throughout your project, be it shocks that seemed would hold up to the rigors of a heavy EV, but don't, or a controller that needs an external contactor and precharge control. The Soliton controllers have contactors and precharge built in, which makes for clean wiring, ease of installation and lowers the relative cost of the product (I consider it worth at least $200 to have these parts built in). Be sure to read through the controller's manual before buying it, most of them are available online and are written knowing that EV novices will be using the manual (this is not to say that you'll easily understand everything in the manual).

     Buying a used controller could be a good decision, depending on the cost, how old it is, how it was used/abused and whether the manufacturer or other company still supports the product. One website, EV Trading Post  is a listing service wherein you can find used controllers. I almost bought a used Zilla 1k HV (asking price was $1800), but opted instead for the Soliton Jr., due the the relative price and features. I paid about the same ($2100) for a the Soliton JR., which had about the same voltage range, but lower peak current; what really sold me on the Soliton was the continuous power and internal contactor and precharge, among other features exclusive to Soliton.

     Motor and battery protection features are very important in an electric motor controller. Most controllers have some sort of protection for both motors and batteries, but not all features are equal. Protection for batteries is very important for increasing their life. Many controllers have a  LVC feature, which essentially turns off the controller when the battery voltage reaches a user configured value, but this feature can inhibit the amount of power taken from the batteries, thereby affecting available power. Only Soliton offers two separate values, one of which allows the pack voltage to drop during acceleration and the other will prevent you from over discharging the pack. Remember that you won't get the full power from your batteries until the voltage has sagged to half of the nominal value, so this feature is very important. Protecting the motor from over current or over speeding is a valuable feature of many controllers. Keep in mind that for over speed protection, you'll need a speed sensor on the motor and the sensor will be connected to the controller. Many motors come with a temperature snap switch, that will close a circuit of your choosing, which could be a light, alarm or input to the controller and the controller could be configured to properly respond to the switch closing a circuit in a high temperature event.

      It's unwise to rush into ordering your EV parts. Taking your time and doing research enables you to find little things that can save time and money and are easily overlooked. Buying a controller is a big decision and since controllers are often able to handle enough power to destroy life and property, rushing could prove catastrophic.


You can find more info at locotranspo.com

Your MPG-Based on Driving Habits and Road Conditions

When look at the sticker of a vehicle in a sales lot, you'll see a range of how many miles per gallon the average driver would get in the car. These numbers may actually mean very little to you, depending on your own driving habits, conditions of the roads you drive upon, the condition of the vehicle you're driving and even the weather.

Your driving habits and the condition of the vehicle you drive are the biggest  controllable factors affecting your MPG. Pedal to the metal type folks can get as much as 50% less miles per gallon than feather-foot drivers. Planning your route, accelerating slowly from a stop, driving with windows up and A/C off, avoiding stops when possible and being an attentive driver can pay you in savings. You can increase your profit from the use of your vehicle (or minimize cost) just by following a few guidelines. Similarly, maintaining your vehicle by keeping tires properly inflated and performing tuneups as recommended by manufacturer, you can also enjoy extra savings on your vehicle. The worst drivers, who take none of this advice, are handing their money over to oil tycoons and governments because-fast is fun and wasting money fits in with low self esteem(very possibly, or it fits with an abundance of cash). 

You might be lured into purchasing a car that gets an "EPA estimated"    X  amount of mpg freeway, even though most of your driving is city. It's important to actually consider the main use of the vehicle and focus on the mpg you're likely to get in that situation. For example, a parent that uses the vehicle to pick up kids and groceries, which is almost always mostly city driving, highway mpg will rarely be enjoyed. So many new models are getting city mpg that other vehicles struggle to get on the highway that this may not be much of an issue for drivers interested in newer models. Another important thing to consider about estimated mpg is the city or freeway driving conditions in your area. In Los Angeles, freeway driving and city driving are often synonymous with regards to mpg. In such cities, hybrid vehicles really start to become tempting, what with their super-duper city mpg estimates.In small towns with few stop signs, lights and traffic, city mpg may be surprisingly good. 

It's important to be aware of all the mpg factors within your control and make the most of it.

 You can find user reported fuel efficiency (or inefficiency) data on several websites like http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ and 

http://www.fuelly.com/ and you can find information on low cost transportation at http://www.locotranspo.com

Choosing Electric Vehicle Conversion Parts

             I know the story-  gas prices are too high and internal combustion engines are a waste, so many of us are deciding to convert our existing vehicles to run on electric. An incredible number of would-be/soon to be converters haven't a clue about what it takes to convert a vehicle; the time and money that often keep adding past that initial estimate. I'd like to guide you through the process of selecting parts that may seem expensive and/or more powerful than you need, but there are hidden features and reasons that the novice may overlook when comparing parts.

            Your very first task is to find an EV parts suppliers that has a reputation for good customer service and selling the best parts. There are several companies, with whom I am not affiliated, that I feel good about recommending after having experienced both good and bad sellers. Evolve Electrics, KTA Services, Rebirth Auto and Canadian Electric Vehicles have the parts, service and experience in  the EV industry to make the small list of companies I recommend. There are other good companies out there, but these should get you started well enough. One of these companies, should you select them, can also guide you to determine what parts you'll need. I won't be diving into great detail, except where necessary, and I'll mainly cover the four biggest ticket items that you'll buy (motor, controller, batteries and charger).

• Motor

             The motor needs to be able to pass enough power through it to get you up to freeway speed, employ maneuvers to avoid hitting things (sometimes requires accelerating) and maybe even hauling heavy loads on hot days. There are really only two great choices out there- Netgain and Kostov; other motors will likely work fine in everyday situations, but may be over worked in certain situations. Your choice of motor is largely dependent upon weight and type of road-going (or off road-going) you'll be doing. A popular motor is the Netgain Warp 9, which is an affordable and tough brushed DC motor that can take a significant amount of current before expiring(melting or zorching). Many users have applied voltages to this motor that other motors wouldn't be able to take. Higher voltage usually equates to higher efficiency and puts less stress from high current on batteries and other system components. Avoid getting a motor that will just barely push your vehicle around, as it might over-heat and end up costing you as much as you would have paid for the right Kotsov or Netgain motor. A 9" motor should be the smallest motor you put in any vehicle over 1800 pounds (8.2 kilos). For any truck or other large vehicle, go with an 11", dual 9" motors or a 13". You'll also need an adapter plate to mount the motor to your transmission; the highest regards go to Canadian EV for their awesome adapter plates.

• Controller                                                                                                                                                              

          
                Your selection of a controller should be influenced by your motor selection and vehicle type. Buying a good controller is important-there are too many stories of capacitors blowing up or worse, the controller shorting and passing current straight to the motor (aaahhh! hit the brakes!!!). Just like your motor, your controller should be more than powerful enough to move your vehicle and should be able to handle that little extra duty you throw its way every now and then. Soliton has a lineup of controllers that fit many budgets, performance requirements and needs for options. Made by Evnetics, these controllers have built in contactors and precharge circuit-along with a slew of options ,like slew rate and fine control over battery parameters. The battery parameters are sure to save you frustration as well as time and money, owing to their special options for setting battery  low voltage under load and battery low voltage under no load. When comparing the cost of controllers, keep in mind that Soliton's opwer rating are continuous, but most others are not and   be sure to factor in the cost of the contactors and precharge built in.

• Batteries

         
                It is my hope that gone are the days when lead acid batteries were the leading recommendation. I actually swore them  off recently, in favor of a variety of lithium chemistries that have proven a solid replacement to the heavy leaded batteries. LiFePO4 cells (also known under similar like LiFeYPO4) are all the rage owing to their energy density and all time low cost. These cells will allow you to convert your car and then charge it in less time than lead acid or NiMh. The cycle life is also touted at 2000 + discharge cycles.The size of battery is often determined by your budget and your pack size could be from 5kW up to, well, 50kW or more if you have the space and funds, just make sure that the battery you choose can deliver the power that you need (even a 2000 lb car is going to need 1000 amps (at around 200 volts) if you want to impress, so even if range isn't your concern, make sure your battery pack can keep up with your foot. Buy your batteries from a place that stocks your choice battery and avoid sending checks to businesses that don't offer an easy way to contact them (if they ask for a check, it's a sign to me to look elsewhere). Many people will tell you that you must have a battery management system (BMS) for you batteries, but this is not really true. A sophisticated BMS can properly manage your pack, but it's going to be another big expense, possibly as big an expense as your motor. Avoid the affordable (cheap) BMSs, as they lack functionality that is really needed in a BMS. If you can't afford to buy the BMS, then you are going to have to employ gadgets like the JLD 404 Intelligent Ah Meter; this device an be programmed to control your charger and other electronics via its internal and programmable relays. 

• Charger

                Assuming that you've followed the last few paragraphs and I've influenced your decision-making, the charger should be matched to your batteries and your charging time needs. Everyone has an amount of time that they can typically wait to charge their vehicle, so you'll have to determine charging time based on charger output-  battery capacity divided by charger output (in amps) times 1.4
 example:
your 100Ah pack and 10Amp charger gives a wait time of  100/10= 10    10 * 1.4 = 14 hours charge time from 100% DOD. Elcon, Zivan and Manzanita Micro are the big players in the charging arena. Price will steer most people toward Zivan and Elcon. Straying away from one of these and towards unknown chargers (made in China) won't necessarily be a mistake, but you'll lack features like Elcon's in the field voltage adjustment, which allows you to change the voltage in increments of a single cells. Higher quality chargers also offer more and better algorithms unique to your specific needs, like whether or not you're using a BMS.


         The biggest commandment I have for you is to buy the right parts the first time or you will end up spending twice as much on have the product. Don't skimp out on what could be moving you down the street or racetrack. Electricity is a powerful beast-getting parts that can turn that beast into well-mannered horsepower is your most important task. 

Over Volting DC Motors- the “Turbo” of Electric Vehicles

Now that electric vehicles are becoming an ever-present part of transportation systems around the world, people are going to want to know how to modify them and get more power out of existing systems. Fortunately, Brushed DC motors are simple and robust enough to pump more amps and volts through them than their rating would lead you to believe.

Firstly, electric motors aren’t rated at peak power, but at continuous and 1 hour thermal (heat). The continuous rating refers to the amount of power the motor can output without burning up. The 1 hour rating is the power output that the motor can safely perform for… you guessed it, an hour. You may or may not find peak power ratings for these motors, due to the typically predictable duties which they so often perform (industrial settings). In vehicles, there are so many variables that can affect how much power you need in any given situation motors need to be able to put out far more than typical electric motors are “rated” for. Alas, the electric motor’s peak power capability, that unknown amount of power that people like me are destined to find, albeit the hard way if not careful.

One of your main concerns when over-volting an electric motor is the speed of the motor, which is often directly proportional to the voltage applied. You can monitor this with a speed sensor, possibly coupled with a speed switch, which will cut power to the motor in the when a certain speed is reached.  It is important to note the dangers of applying excess voltage to a motor: If the speed becomes too great, the motor will become a large grenade, imparting heavy chunks of steel, copper and aluminum in the air and causing property damage or death. The parts necessary to control/ monitor speed can be purchased from KTA Services Inc                 http://www.kta-ev.com/RPMLimiting_s/1844.htm    there may be other suppliers out there, but I only know of this one.

Though you can often get away with applying higher voltages or higher current to a motor, applying both higher voltage and higher current at the same time will most likely not be tolerated for long and any damage will onset very rapidly. I would suggest sticking with applying small amounts of extra voltage (in increments smaller than 6 volts) incrementally, while observing the brushes on the motor. The brushes will arc excessively and bounce off of the commutator, which will cause quicker brush wear, a build-up of heat and carbon brush dust. The dust can become a major concern if left unchecked and can lead to an event that will damage your motor. Due diligence includes using an air compressor to blow out the area around the brushes on a schedule you’ll have to create (based on the motor and brushes it uses and the amount of excess voltage experienced by the motor).

If abusing your motor, which is technically what I am advising when I say that you can over volt a motor, you should make modifications that allow the motor to shed heat better, like using forced air cooling or better forced air cooling. For those who can fabricate parts, you may be able to come up with a liquid cooling system for your motor (this one may actually take redesigning the motor, but some will go after it anyway), which can easily out-perform the air cooling method and allow even more abuse.

Another very important over-volting precaution that should be observed is the amount of time your motor spins at those higher speeds. Even at rated speeds, some manufacturers recommend not maintaining the rated rpm limit for long periods of time. I have heard no accounts of motors flying apart (well, not in electric vehicles anyway), but you should remember the possibility for it to happen.

Before attempting to modify your motor, please be aware of the dangers discussed herein and any dangers that might surface in your unique situation. Each individual’s experience will be different due to the vast number of variables for which I can’t totally account. Take baby steps and enjoy your electric turbo boost. Other motor types can be over-volted and some of the concerns are similar, though series-wound DC motors are going to be the motor of choice in many DIY projects and will be simple to work with, so, chances are that you’ll be considering applying extra voltage to a brushed DC motor.

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Electric Vehicle Conversion Problems

The hope that drives us to search for something other than gasoline to power our vehicles often blinds us to the many problems that can crop up along the way. Sometimes that blindness continues on indefinitely. Before moving too far along I’d like to mention that this article may equally apply to converting a vehicle to run on other fuels such as natural gas.

The main problems stem from electric vehicles (EVs) being so uncommon in day to day life and some of the technologies that come along with EVs are very new. Electric vehicles are becoming more and more common, which is helping to gain public acceptance and understanding of that technology, but they still aren’t anywhere near as common and understood as the internal combustion engine. I was completely unaware of electric vehicles until-I should make you try to guess and I bet you’ll get it right-2008, when the prices of gasoline began soaring. Since my helpless introduction to EVs I have become something close to an expert, having put over 1000 hours of research and practice in the study of electric vehicle technology. If I knew now what I needed to know when I started my first electric vehicle conversion I would have saved a bit of money, time and I would have ended up with a much better electric vehicle in the end.

Cost

The cost factor is what gets many people. There’s not always an easy way to forecast the complete cost to convert a vehicle to electric as there are so many variables that are quite good at remaining hidden until you thought it safe to put your pocketbook away. Make sure you have more than enough money to do your conversion. The vehicle to be converted should be thoroughly inspected by a trained automotive tech for excessive rust, worn suspensions parts, weak structural members of the vehicle and give an all clear when all the pre-conversion needs are satisfied. I heard of at least one conversion that completely collapsed the car due to the weight of the batteries. The car’s chassis was not built to handle an extra 1000 pounds, so it let the owner know in the worst of ways. The weight issue will probably only apply to lead acid based conversions.  Far too many people try to make do with what they have when what they have isn’t good enough.

When buying parts, it’s tempting to avoid certain recommended, but not absolutely necessary parts like circuit breakers (just like the ones in your house, only much more expensive) and inertia switches (shuts off battery in accident), though they are important. Accidents and over current conditions can cause unnecessary damage to the parts that these relatively inexpensive safety devices could protect. There’s also the temptation to make some of the parts yourself and though many people are adequately experienced and equipped to do so, it may not make sense for you to attempt it. The tools that are needed for fabricating parts like motor mounts and battery brackets aren’t cheap (the ones that are often break) and it takes time to really master material fabrication. I was willing to give it a go, but I had already received some training on metal and plastic fabrication. I bought two inexpensive welders for my projects, both of which have broken. The worst temptation is to buy parts that are not quite powerful enough for your conversion. My rule (now) is to buy a motor and controller that are more powerful than you think you’ll need. Yes, you’ll spend more money up front, but the parts will likely last longer, be more efficient and you’ll be able to accelerate quickly enough to avoid accidents (braking doesn’t do the trick in all traffic situations).

Experience

If you must, must, must have that electric ride and are willing to do whatever is needed to build it yourself, prepare for a journey of learning. Those who don’t already have an automotive background should take at least some introductory automotive classes; better yet, take several advanced classes too. I mentioned earlier that I have invested 100 hours into my quest for EV knowledge, but not everyone will need that much to build a nice and safe electric vehicle. The quicker way is to hire an expert to guide you through the process (it’s not very expensive either, as little as a couple hundred bucks); the cost of the expert will save you at least hundreds if not more. Reading articles like this can get you a good way, but buying a complete book, such as “Build Your Own Electric Vehicle” by Bob Brant can be a challenging, but useful read or at least a handy reference manual. No amount of reading is quite like the actual start of your build; purchasing parts, ripping out internal combustion engine parts and combing through the vehicle is often fun and rewarding.

One problem I shouldn’t skate on mentioning is the experience of buying the parts. You may or may not have dealt with internet companies, but all of them are unique and some of them aren’t easy to deal with. Just because the company sells EV parts, it doesn’t mean that you should buy from them, even if they are cheaper than the other places. Search for a reputable company that has been around for a while under the same ownership. Some of the EV part suppliers have very limited knowledge of business or electric vehicles. Many of them are ma and pa type stores run out of a house. When buying parts, make sure that you understand the amount of time it will take to ship your items to you or lead time (time it takes to build your product), so you can properly plan your project. I purchased batteries from a poorly run company (I didn’t know it at the time) and my batteries sat in a warehouse for almost two weeks because of a mistake made by the company I bought them from. The total time for me to receive my batteries (from a quoted 6-8 weeks) was nearly 12 weeks. Such an occurrence can really mess up your plans.

Always use your credit card for parts purchases; some parts suppliers ask for a check (actually, I only know of one) and it should be considered suspicious if they insist that you use a check, no matter what reason they give you. Just because you read a review online doesn’t make it true. I usually judge the company by a ratio of good to bad reviews and if I’m unsure, I’ll make a small test purchase to get a feel for how the company handles itself. There are companies that crop up all the time, some last and most don’t. When it comes to selling EV parts, there are two company profiles that matter: Those that are in the business because it’s the current trend and those that will be in it because they believe in electric vehicle. The companies that are in business because it’s the current trend are the ones that more often fail because they don’t realize how many of their customers have no clue what they need. The ones that survive are the ones that primarily sell parts to other die hard EV fans. You can spot one of the companies that last by the parts they sell, which are competitively priced amongst similar companies and are rarely made in China. Many of the highest regarded EV parts are made in USA. Please don’t think that I’m bashing that which is made in China, they do produce some very good parts, but there is usually some sacrifice that’s made in the manufacturing of the part or a misrepresented aspect of the product in its description. 

Other problems are bound to pop up here and there. It's important to do as much research as you can prior to actually placing any orders, so as to prevent the most expensive problems from happening. One of my biggest mistakes was rushing into my project. Had I waited, I would not have wasted money on the lead acid batteries that I purchased initially (I was able to sell them for most of my money back, but some money was still lost) and I could have purchased the parts from a supplier that I later worked for (employees were given 5% discount). Of course, since you've read this article, you're a bit better armed for a conversion I was, I only had forums when I started (yuck).

Used Car Buying Guide

The least expensive route to vehicle ownership is, other than car jacking an old lady, to buy a used vehicle. This can often be a trap, though, because you don't know how well the vehicle was cared for by previous owners. Even the respected Honda and Toyota vehicles of the eighties and nineties could turn out to be lemons (small ones), especially since so many people think that such cars are indestructible and rarely maintain the vehicle (often driving the car like it's stolen, yes, from an old lady). There are a few basic rules that I have for purchasing a used car, which, when followed, generally produce great results.

Get plenty of rest before getting ready to deal.
Clear your schedule and otherwise minimize distractions on deal day.
Be ready to walk away from any deal that you're not reasonably sure about.

 I created this used vehicle check list over the years, having purchased over 37 vehicles (mostly used) and having dealt with repairs and problems galore along the way.

Buy a popular vehicle. Vehicles that were produced in large numbers offer several advantages:
Parts are easier to find when needed and are less expensive.
More mechanics will be familiar to common problems with common vehicles.
More aftermarket parts will be available.
Popular cars will often be easier to find, buy and sell.

Go see the car while the DMV is open.  You can call the DMV and ask them to verify that all paperwork is correct and the title is issued to the person claiming to hold it. You can't ask the DMV to tell you who owns the vessel, so choose your question carefully and ask something like: I am about to buy vehicle, lic#xxxxxx.....I want to make sure that it is registered to       seller's name here    and that there are no fees owed or actions placed against the vehicle.

Take your time. Rushing into a vehicle purchase can often lead to problems. I have noticed that I don't see many of the smaller defects of the vehicle until after I bought it or until I have seen it a few times. The entire experience of buying a vehicle can overload your senses and cause you to miss important details. Some details might make or break the deal and others just give you negotiating room.

Set aside some of the money you've raised for... There is no magical formula that can guarantee you get the best car. Even after you've memorized this checklist and double checked everything, you might find soon after buying the vehicle that it needs something (whether the seller knew or not). Even brand new vehicles have part failures, so always be prepared.

Make sure the seller is not rushed. A rushed seller can be a sign that something's amiss or that he's legitimately in a hurry; NOT your problem. If the seller can't meet your terms reasonably, then find another seller.

Perform the following checks on the vehicle:
If the vehicle works and is registered for street use-
--Start the vehicle immediately upon your arrival and have it idle while you check other items, let the vehicle warm up to normal operating temperature. If the seller tries not to let you perform this check, explain that it's a deal breaker and if you can't inspect the car, you don't want it.
--Before the test drive, go to each corner of the vehicle and push on the bumper with all of your weight and let go, the vehicle should quickly settle and should not appear bouncy (an indication of worn suspension parts).
--While near each corner grab each wheel firmly at the top and shake it like you want to break it (you won't), look, listen and feel for any play, noises (clunking) and finally spin each wheel to verify that it spins freely.
--Also while at each wheel, look at the rotors (if equipped and if visible with wheel on) and make sure they have a smooth shiny surface. You should have a flashlight with you in case anything is hard to see without one.
--Look under the vehicle for oil or other fluids and try to identify the fluid and source. You will perform this check again after driving the vehicle.
--Inspect the exhaust pipe, making sure that there isn't a thick black film or any other film and that you can't see any smoke (regardless of color).
--Open the engine compartment and look for loose wires, cracked hoses or anything that makes the car look like it was worked on by an amateur (some would say tweaker). Also not parts that appear newer than others (the seller will likely point them out if he/she replaced the item).
--Check the oil. Dirty oil means that the oil is working. Oil that looks super clean could mean that an oil change was recently done. Oil that looks like a milk shake usually means that the engine is in need of repairs (head gasket, not cheap).
--Check other fluids just to make sure that they are all full.
--Inspect belts and hoses for cracks and frays.
--Have someone get in the vehicle and operate the lights, on at a time, to verify that they all work.

Drive the vehicle. Take the vehicle on a drive that enables you to drive at a variety of speeds. Pay attention to how the vehicle shifts as you accelerate. Turn on anything that you can to verify that it works, especially the heater and A/C. Make sure to drive the car a bit hard, steering, braking and accelerating harder than normal while paying attention for strange noises or other unwanted behaviors. Keep glancing at the instrument cluster, making sure that the temperature gauge stays stable (once up to full operating temperature) and make sure that the service engine soon light or other indicators of faults don't appear.

After driving the vehicle. Check the oil again, quickly and make sure that the oil looks similar to when you checked it first (if the first time proved the oil good) and remember that dirty oil is not bad. Too much, not enough or foaming oil can all be bad. Also smell the oil, if it smells like gasoline, the car probably needs a repair. You may want to look at and smell the oil of vehicles that are know to be in good condition before going on your hunt.

Know what constitutes a deal breaker. Only you know your situation and will have to decide what things you are willing to deal with. I, for example, typically want a vehicle that doesn't need any major repairs (any problems engine or transmission related, deal breaker). If you don't know how costly or difficult something is to repair, call a mechanic and ask for a quote, even while you're checking out the car. My car needs a...about how much do you charge to fix...

Be prepared to walk away for any reason. If anything seems odd or if you are unsure of anything, just walk away; there are plenty of other cars out there and better deals to be made.