Your MPG-Based on Driving Habits and Road Conditions

When look at the sticker of a vehicle in a sales lot, you'll see a range of how many miles per gallon the average driver would get in the car. These numbers may actually mean very little to you, depending on your own driving habits, conditions of the roads you drive upon, the condition of the vehicle you're driving and even the weather.

Your driving habits and the condition of the vehicle you drive are the biggest  controllable factors affecting your MPG. Pedal to the metal type folks can get as much as 50% less miles per gallon than feather-foot drivers. Planning your route, accelerating slowly from a stop, driving with windows up and A/C off, avoiding stops when possible and being an attentive driver can pay you in savings. You can increase your profit from the use of your vehicle (or minimize cost) just by following a few guidelines. Similarly, maintaining your vehicle by keeping tires properly inflated and performing tuneups as recommended by manufacturer, you can also enjoy extra savings on your vehicle. The worst drivers, who take none of this advice, are handing their money over to oil tycoons and governments because-fast is fun and wasting money fits in with low self esteem(very possibly, or it fits with an abundance of cash). 

You might be lured into purchasing a car that gets an "EPA estimated"    X  amount of mpg freeway, even though most of your driving is city. It's important to actually consider the main use of the vehicle and focus on the mpg you're likely to get in that situation. For example, a parent that uses the vehicle to pick up kids and groceries, which is almost always mostly city driving, highway mpg will rarely be enjoyed. So many new models are getting city mpg that other vehicles struggle to get on the highway that this may not be much of an issue for drivers interested in newer models. Another important thing to consider about estimated mpg is the city or freeway driving conditions in your area. In Los Angeles, freeway driving and city driving are often synonymous with regards to mpg. In such cities, hybrid vehicles really start to become tempting, what with their super-duper city mpg estimates.In small towns with few stop signs, lights and traffic, city mpg may be surprisingly good. 

It's important to be aware of all the mpg factors within your control and make the most of it.

 You can find user reported fuel efficiency (or inefficiency) data on several websites like http://www.fueleconomy.gov/ and 

http://www.fuelly.com/ and you can find information on low cost transportation at http://www.locotranspo.com

Choosing Electric Vehicle Conversion Parts

             I know the story-  gas prices are too high and internal combustion engines are a waste, so many of us are deciding to convert our existing vehicles to run on electric. An incredible number of would-be/soon to be converters haven't a clue about what it takes to convert a vehicle; the time and money that often keep adding past that initial estimate. I'd like to guide you through the process of selecting parts that may seem expensive and/or more powerful than you need, but there are hidden features and reasons that the novice may overlook when comparing parts.

            Your very first task is to find an EV parts suppliers that has a reputation for good customer service and selling the best parts. There are several companies, with whom I am not affiliated, that I feel good about recommending after having experienced both good and bad sellers. Evolve Electrics, KTA Services, Rebirth Auto and Canadian Electric Vehicles have the parts, service and experience in  the EV industry to make the small list of companies I recommend. There are other good companies out there, but these should get you started well enough. One of these companies, should you select them, can also guide you to determine what parts you'll need. I won't be diving into great detail, except where necessary, and I'll mainly cover the four biggest ticket items that you'll buy (motor, controller, batteries and charger).

• Motor

             The motor needs to be able to pass enough power through it to get you up to freeway speed, employ maneuvers to avoid hitting things (sometimes requires accelerating) and maybe even hauling heavy loads on hot days. There are really only two great choices out there- Netgain and Kostov; other motors will likely work fine in everyday situations, but may be over worked in certain situations. Your choice of motor is largely dependent upon weight and type of road-going (or off road-going) you'll be doing. A popular motor is the Netgain Warp 9, which is an affordable and tough brushed DC motor that can take a significant amount of current before expiring(melting or zorching). Many users have applied voltages to this motor that other motors wouldn't be able to take. Higher voltage usually equates to higher efficiency and puts less stress from high current on batteries and other system components. Avoid getting a motor that will just barely push your vehicle around, as it might over-heat and end up costing you as much as you would have paid for the right Kotsov or Netgain motor. A 9" motor should be the smallest motor you put in any vehicle over 1800 pounds (8.2 kilos). For any truck or other large vehicle, go with an 11", dual 9" motors or a 13". You'll also need an adapter plate to mount the motor to your transmission; the highest regards go to Canadian EV for their awesome adapter plates.

• Controller                                                                                                                                                              

          
                Your selection of a controller should be influenced by your motor selection and vehicle type. Buying a good controller is important-there are too many stories of capacitors blowing up or worse, the controller shorting and passing current straight to the motor (aaahhh! hit the brakes!!!). Just like your motor, your controller should be more than powerful enough to move your vehicle and should be able to handle that little extra duty you throw its way every now and then. Soliton has a lineup of controllers that fit many budgets, performance requirements and needs for options. Made by Evnetics, these controllers have built in contactors and precharge circuit-along with a slew of options ,like slew rate and fine control over battery parameters. The battery parameters are sure to save you frustration as well as time and money, owing to their special options for setting battery  low voltage under load and battery low voltage under no load. When comparing the cost of controllers, keep in mind that Soliton's opwer rating are continuous, but most others are not and   be sure to factor in the cost of the contactors and precharge built in.

• Batteries

         
                It is my hope that gone are the days when lead acid batteries were the leading recommendation. I actually swore them  off recently, in favor of a variety of lithium chemistries that have proven a solid replacement to the heavy leaded batteries. LiFePO4 cells (also known under similar like LiFeYPO4) are all the rage owing to their energy density and all time low cost. These cells will allow you to convert your car and then charge it in less time than lead acid or NiMh. The cycle life is also touted at 2000 + discharge cycles.The size of battery is often determined by your budget and your pack size could be from 5kW up to, well, 50kW or more if you have the space and funds, just make sure that the battery you choose can deliver the power that you need (even a 2000 lb car is going to need 1000 amps (at around 200 volts) if you want to impress, so even if range isn't your concern, make sure your battery pack can keep up with your foot. Buy your batteries from a place that stocks your choice battery and avoid sending checks to businesses that don't offer an easy way to contact them (if they ask for a check, it's a sign to me to look elsewhere). Many people will tell you that you must have a battery management system (BMS) for you batteries, but this is not really true. A sophisticated BMS can properly manage your pack, but it's going to be another big expense, possibly as big an expense as your motor. Avoid the affordable (cheap) BMSs, as they lack functionality that is really needed in a BMS. If you can't afford to buy the BMS, then you are going to have to employ gadgets like the JLD 404 Intelligent Ah Meter; this device an be programmed to control your charger and other electronics via its internal and programmable relays. 

• Charger

                Assuming that you've followed the last few paragraphs and I've influenced your decision-making, the charger should be matched to your batteries and your charging time needs. Everyone has an amount of time that they can typically wait to charge their vehicle, so you'll have to determine charging time based on charger output-  battery capacity divided by charger output (in amps) times 1.4
 example:
your 100Ah pack and 10Amp charger gives a wait time of  100/10= 10    10 * 1.4 = 14 hours charge time from 100% DOD. Elcon, Zivan and Manzanita Micro are the big players in the charging arena. Price will steer most people toward Zivan and Elcon. Straying away from one of these and towards unknown chargers (made in China) won't necessarily be a mistake, but you'll lack features like Elcon's in the field voltage adjustment, which allows you to change the voltage in increments of a single cells. Higher quality chargers also offer more and better algorithms unique to your specific needs, like whether or not you're using a BMS.


         The biggest commandment I have for you is to buy the right parts the first time or you will end up spending twice as much on have the product. Don't skimp out on what could be moving you down the street or racetrack. Electricity is a powerful beast-getting parts that can turn that beast into well-mannered horsepower is your most important task. 

Over Volting DC Motors- the “Turbo” of Electric Vehicles

Now that electric vehicles are becoming an ever-present part of transportation systems around the world, people are going to want to know how to modify them and get more power out of existing systems. Fortunately, Brushed DC motors are simple and robust enough to pump more amps and volts through them than their rating would lead you to believe.

Firstly, electric motors aren’t rated at peak power, but at continuous and 1 hour thermal (heat). The continuous rating refers to the amount of power the motor can output without burning up. The 1 hour rating is the power output that the motor can safely perform for… you guessed it, an hour. You may or may not find peak power ratings for these motors, due to the typically predictable duties which they so often perform (industrial settings). In vehicles, there are so many variables that can affect how much power you need in any given situation motors need to be able to put out far more than typical electric motors are “rated” for. Alas, the electric motor’s peak power capability, that unknown amount of power that people like me are destined to find, albeit the hard way if not careful.

One of your main concerns when over-volting an electric motor is the speed of the motor, which is often directly proportional to the voltage applied. You can monitor this with a speed sensor, possibly coupled with a speed switch, which will cut power to the motor in the when a certain speed is reached.  It is important to note the dangers of applying excess voltage to a motor: If the speed becomes too great, the motor will become a large grenade, imparting heavy chunks of steel, copper and aluminum in the air and causing property damage or death. The parts necessary to control/ monitor speed can be purchased from KTA Services Inc                 http://www.kta-ev.com/RPMLimiting_s/1844.htm    there may be other suppliers out there, but I only know of this one.

Though you can often get away with applying higher voltages or higher current to a motor, applying both higher voltage and higher current at the same time will most likely not be tolerated for long and any damage will onset very rapidly. I would suggest sticking with applying small amounts of extra voltage (in increments smaller than 6 volts) incrementally, while observing the brushes on the motor. The brushes will arc excessively and bounce off of the commutator, which will cause quicker brush wear, a build-up of heat and carbon brush dust. The dust can become a major concern if left unchecked and can lead to an event that will damage your motor. Due diligence includes using an air compressor to blow out the area around the brushes on a schedule you’ll have to create (based on the motor and brushes it uses and the amount of excess voltage experienced by the motor).

If abusing your motor, which is technically what I am advising when I say that you can over volt a motor, you should make modifications that allow the motor to shed heat better, like using forced air cooling or better forced air cooling. For those who can fabricate parts, you may be able to come up with a liquid cooling system for your motor (this one may actually take redesigning the motor, but some will go after it anyway), which can easily out-perform the air cooling method and allow even more abuse.

Another very important over-volting precaution that should be observed is the amount of time your motor spins at those higher speeds. Even at rated speeds, some manufacturers recommend not maintaining the rated rpm limit for long periods of time. I have heard no accounts of motors flying apart (well, not in electric vehicles anyway), but you should remember the possibility for it to happen.

Before attempting to modify your motor, please be aware of the dangers discussed herein and any dangers that might surface in your unique situation. Each individual’s experience will be different due to the vast number of variables for which I can’t totally account. Take baby steps and enjoy your electric turbo boost. Other motor types can be over-volted and some of the concerns are similar, though series-wound DC motors are going to be the motor of choice in many DIY projects and will be simple to work with, so, chances are that you’ll be considering applying extra voltage to a brushed DC motor.

see brought to you by locotranspo.com

Electric Vehicle Conversion Problems

The hope that drives us to search for something other than gasoline to power our vehicles often blinds us to the many problems that can crop up along the way. Sometimes that blindness continues on indefinitely. Before moving too far along I’d like to mention that this article may equally apply to converting a vehicle to run on other fuels such as natural gas.

The main problems stem from electric vehicles (EVs) being so uncommon in day to day life and some of the technologies that come along with EVs are very new. Electric vehicles are becoming more and more common, which is helping to gain public acceptance and understanding of that technology, but they still aren’t anywhere near as common and understood as the internal combustion engine. I was completely unaware of electric vehicles until-I should make you try to guess and I bet you’ll get it right-2008, when the prices of gasoline began soaring. Since my helpless introduction to EVs I have become something close to an expert, having put over 1000 hours of research and practice in the study of electric vehicle technology. If I knew now what I needed to know when I started my first electric vehicle conversion I would have saved a bit of money, time and I would have ended up with a much better electric vehicle in the end.

Cost

The cost factor is what gets many people. There’s not always an easy way to forecast the complete cost to convert a vehicle to electric as there are so many variables that are quite good at remaining hidden until you thought it safe to put your pocketbook away. Make sure you have more than enough money to do your conversion. The vehicle to be converted should be thoroughly inspected by a trained automotive tech for excessive rust, worn suspensions parts, weak structural members of the vehicle and give an all clear when all the pre-conversion needs are satisfied. I heard of at least one conversion that completely collapsed the car due to the weight of the batteries. The car’s chassis was not built to handle an extra 1000 pounds, so it let the owner know in the worst of ways. The weight issue will probably only apply to lead acid based conversions.  Far too many people try to make do with what they have when what they have isn’t good enough.

When buying parts, it’s tempting to avoid certain recommended, but not absolutely necessary parts like circuit breakers (just like the ones in your house, only much more expensive) and inertia switches (shuts off battery in accident), though they are important. Accidents and over current conditions can cause unnecessary damage to the parts that these relatively inexpensive safety devices could protect. There’s also the temptation to make some of the parts yourself and though many people are adequately experienced and equipped to do so, it may not make sense for you to attempt it. The tools that are needed for fabricating parts like motor mounts and battery brackets aren’t cheap (the ones that are often break) and it takes time to really master material fabrication. I was willing to give it a go, but I had already received some training on metal and plastic fabrication. I bought two inexpensive welders for my projects, both of which have broken. The worst temptation is to buy parts that are not quite powerful enough for your conversion. My rule (now) is to buy a motor and controller that are more powerful than you think you’ll need. Yes, you’ll spend more money up front, but the parts will likely last longer, be more efficient and you’ll be able to accelerate quickly enough to avoid accidents (braking doesn’t do the trick in all traffic situations).

Experience

If you must, must, must have that electric ride and are willing to do whatever is needed to build it yourself, prepare for a journey of learning. Those who don’t already have an automotive background should take at least some introductory automotive classes; better yet, take several advanced classes too. I mentioned earlier that I have invested 100 hours into my quest for EV knowledge, but not everyone will need that much to build a nice and safe electric vehicle. The quicker way is to hire an expert to guide you through the process (it’s not very expensive either, as little as a couple hundred bucks); the cost of the expert will save you at least hundreds if not more. Reading articles like this can get you a good way, but buying a complete book, such as “Build Your Own Electric Vehicle” by Bob Brant can be a challenging, but useful read or at least a handy reference manual. No amount of reading is quite like the actual start of your build; purchasing parts, ripping out internal combustion engine parts and combing through the vehicle is often fun and rewarding.

One problem I shouldn’t skate on mentioning is the experience of buying the parts. You may or may not have dealt with internet companies, but all of them are unique and some of them aren’t easy to deal with. Just because the company sells EV parts, it doesn’t mean that you should buy from them, even if they are cheaper than the other places. Search for a reputable company that has been around for a while under the same ownership. Some of the EV part suppliers have very limited knowledge of business or electric vehicles. Many of them are ma and pa type stores run out of a house. When buying parts, make sure that you understand the amount of time it will take to ship your items to you or lead time (time it takes to build your product), so you can properly plan your project. I purchased batteries from a poorly run company (I didn’t know it at the time) and my batteries sat in a warehouse for almost two weeks because of a mistake made by the company I bought them from. The total time for me to receive my batteries (from a quoted 6-8 weeks) was nearly 12 weeks. Such an occurrence can really mess up your plans.

Always use your credit card for parts purchases; some parts suppliers ask for a check (actually, I only know of one) and it should be considered suspicious if they insist that you use a check, no matter what reason they give you. Just because you read a review online doesn’t make it true. I usually judge the company by a ratio of good to bad reviews and if I’m unsure, I’ll make a small test purchase to get a feel for how the company handles itself. There are companies that crop up all the time, some last and most don’t. When it comes to selling EV parts, there are two company profiles that matter: Those that are in the business because it’s the current trend and those that will be in it because they believe in electric vehicle. The companies that are in business because it’s the current trend are the ones that more often fail because they don’t realize how many of their customers have no clue what they need. The ones that survive are the ones that primarily sell parts to other die hard EV fans. You can spot one of the companies that last by the parts they sell, which are competitively priced amongst similar companies and are rarely made in China. Many of the highest regarded EV parts are made in USA. Please don’t think that I’m bashing that which is made in China, they do produce some very good parts, but there is usually some sacrifice that’s made in the manufacturing of the part or a misrepresented aspect of the product in its description. 

Other problems are bound to pop up here and there. It's important to do as much research as you can prior to actually placing any orders, so as to prevent the most expensive problems from happening. One of my biggest mistakes was rushing into my project. Had I waited, I would not have wasted money on the lead acid batteries that I purchased initially (I was able to sell them for most of my money back, but some money was still lost) and I could have purchased the parts from a supplier that I later worked for (employees were given 5% discount). Of course, since you've read this article, you're a bit better armed for a conversion I was, I only had forums when I started (yuck).

Used Car Buying Guide

The least expensive route to vehicle ownership is, other than car jacking an old lady, to buy a used vehicle. This can often be a trap, though, because you don't know how well the vehicle was cared for by previous owners. Even the respected Honda and Toyota vehicles of the eighties and nineties could turn out to be lemons (small ones), especially since so many people think that such cars are indestructible and rarely maintain the vehicle (often driving the car like it's stolen, yes, from an old lady). There are a few basic rules that I have for purchasing a used car, which, when followed, generally produce great results.

Get plenty of rest before getting ready to deal.
Clear your schedule and otherwise minimize distractions on deal day.
Be ready to walk away from any deal that you're not reasonably sure about.

 I created this used vehicle check list over the years, having purchased over 37 vehicles (mostly used) and having dealt with repairs and problems galore along the way.

Buy a popular vehicle. Vehicles that were produced in large numbers offer several advantages:
Parts are easier to find when needed and are less expensive.
More mechanics will be familiar to common problems with common vehicles.
More aftermarket parts will be available.
Popular cars will often be easier to find, buy and sell.

Go see the car while the DMV is open.  You can call the DMV and ask them to verify that all paperwork is correct and the title is issued to the person claiming to hold it. You can't ask the DMV to tell you who owns the vessel, so choose your question carefully and ask something like: I am about to buy vehicle, lic#xxxxxx.....I want to make sure that it is registered to       seller's name here    and that there are no fees owed or actions placed against the vehicle.

Take your time. Rushing into a vehicle purchase can often lead to problems. I have noticed that I don't see many of the smaller defects of the vehicle until after I bought it or until I have seen it a few times. The entire experience of buying a vehicle can overload your senses and cause you to miss important details. Some details might make or break the deal and others just give you negotiating room.

Set aside some of the money you've raised for... There is no magical formula that can guarantee you get the best car. Even after you've memorized this checklist and double checked everything, you might find soon after buying the vehicle that it needs something (whether the seller knew or not). Even brand new vehicles have part failures, so always be prepared.

Make sure the seller is not rushed. A rushed seller can be a sign that something's amiss or that he's legitimately in a hurry; NOT your problem. If the seller can't meet your terms reasonably, then find another seller.

Perform the following checks on the vehicle:
If the vehicle works and is registered for street use-
--Start the vehicle immediately upon your arrival and have it idle while you check other items, let the vehicle warm up to normal operating temperature. If the seller tries not to let you perform this check, explain that it's a deal breaker and if you can't inspect the car, you don't want it.
--Before the test drive, go to each corner of the vehicle and push on the bumper with all of your weight and let go, the vehicle should quickly settle and should not appear bouncy (an indication of worn suspension parts).
--While near each corner grab each wheel firmly at the top and shake it like you want to break it (you won't), look, listen and feel for any play, noises (clunking) and finally spin each wheel to verify that it spins freely.
--Also while at each wheel, look at the rotors (if equipped and if visible with wheel on) and make sure they have a smooth shiny surface. You should have a flashlight with you in case anything is hard to see without one.
--Look under the vehicle for oil or other fluids and try to identify the fluid and source. You will perform this check again after driving the vehicle.
--Inspect the exhaust pipe, making sure that there isn't a thick black film or any other film and that you can't see any smoke (regardless of color).
--Open the engine compartment and look for loose wires, cracked hoses or anything that makes the car look like it was worked on by an amateur (some would say tweaker). Also not parts that appear newer than others (the seller will likely point them out if he/she replaced the item).
--Check the oil. Dirty oil means that the oil is working. Oil that looks super clean could mean that an oil change was recently done. Oil that looks like a milk shake usually means that the engine is in need of repairs (head gasket, not cheap).
--Check other fluids just to make sure that they are all full.
--Inspect belts and hoses for cracks and frays.
--Have someone get in the vehicle and operate the lights, on at a time, to verify that they all work.

Drive the vehicle. Take the vehicle on a drive that enables you to drive at a variety of speeds. Pay attention to how the vehicle shifts as you accelerate. Turn on anything that you can to verify that it works, especially the heater and A/C. Make sure to drive the car a bit hard, steering, braking and accelerating harder than normal while paying attention for strange noises or other unwanted behaviors. Keep glancing at the instrument cluster, making sure that the temperature gauge stays stable (once up to full operating temperature) and make sure that the service engine soon light or other indicators of faults don't appear.

After driving the vehicle. Check the oil again, quickly and make sure that the oil looks similar to when you checked it first (if the first time proved the oil good) and remember that dirty oil is not bad. Too much, not enough or foaming oil can all be bad. Also smell the oil, if it smells like gasoline, the car probably needs a repair. You may want to look at and smell the oil of vehicles that are know to be in good condition before going on your hunt.

Know what constitutes a deal breaker. Only you know your situation and will have to decide what things you are willing to deal with. I, for example, typically want a vehicle that doesn't need any major repairs (any problems engine or transmission related, deal breaker). If you don't know how costly or difficult something is to repair, call a mechanic and ask for a quote, even while you're checking out the car. My car needs a...about how much do you charge to fix...

Be prepared to walk away for any reason. If anything seems odd or if you are unsure of anything, just walk away; there are plenty of other cars out there and better deals to be made.

Saving Money on Transportation

There should be a class in school dedicated to teaching people about the transportation industry. It's so broad and diverse that the great many of us get swallowed up in it-wallet first. One of the most basic requirements that holds sure for most jobs is that you have reliable transportation and not just your Chevrolegs. Probably the most challenging is determining where to start learning and who to trust. It seems that some of the most habitual liars are employed selling you stuff related to transportation. So we are going to start here; getting your information from someone who got tired of sales people and mechanics lying and cheating their way to selling me stuff I didn't really need.
I am sure that we all know how affordable walking is and even bike riding, so we'll skip past those and straight into the serious wheels.
Before you consider buying another vehicle (or your first), make every effort necessary to take an introductory class on automotive technology or send a family member in for that training. Having a trusted source with some automotive knowledge goes a long way and community college courses are so inexpensive that you'll recover the money quickly by avoiding the purchase of lemons or paying for services you don't need.

The least expensive route to vehicle ownership is, as you may already know, to buy a used vehicle. This can often be a trap, though, because you don't know how well the vehicle was cared for by previous owners. Even the respected Hondas and Toyotas of the eighties and nineties could turn out to be lemons, especially since so many people think that such cars are indestructible and rarely maintain the vehicle (often driving the car like it's stolen). There are a few basic rules that I have for purchasing a used car, which, when followed, generally produce great results. Get a competent mechanic to inspect any used vehicle you want to buy.
The most important rules to have for yourself when preparing to buy a car are to get plenty of rest (you'll make better decisions), take your time (most mistakes will be made under a sense of urgency), do your research and be prepared to walk away from any deal for any reason.

Some of us won't be satisfied with a used vehicle and will therefore want to buy new (or newer). Though the aforementioned rules apply equally well, though there needs to be some further explanation of the car sales world for the weight of the rules to be fully realized. In automotive dealerships, there is a process for dealing with customers that is often outright crooked. Be aware that no matter how well you prepare for dealing with them, they are employed full time in the field of getting people to sign. I'll have to actually walk you through a condensed version of the process you'll be led on and comment along the way with insights into the how and why of it. Upon arrival, you are greeted by a friendly face who could be a seasoned sales person or a new hire who has the hunger for sales. The role this person play is highly dependent on whether they have any skill in sales and not as much actual experience at dealerships. A good sales person will illicit fact about and feed those facts back to you in a way that makes you feel already at home with the car, like it's attached to you at the hip. Once the sales person gets you attached to the car, you'll be passed on to a senior sales person who will get you to provide your financial information and begin paperwork and negotiating the price.
When you submit an offer (hopefully you did your homework and know how low to go with that first offer) the senior sales person will often have to take it to their boss for approval, which is a part of a routine meant to wear you down. If you keep attempting to haggle, they will let you haggle nickles and dimes until you get drowsy, thirsty, hungry and you can't do it anymore. Once you get to the point of exhaustion, you get passed on to who will often be the person who walks you through actually signing the paperwork (a legally binding financial agreement). You may have thought that you did all the negotiating with the former senior sales person, but there are more options to decide on, places to sign and more things to just wear you down.
Up until this point, you may have thought that you did a good job haggling down the price and though you may have, there is much more wiggle room in finance fees and upgrades that can add all those savings right back on and then some.

Now I'll highlight what you can do to avoid being deceived. Please note that I believe that somewhere out there exist honest sales people, but don't bother trying to find them. Schedule a day to go on a couple dry runs; go to a couple dealerships and practice walking away after negotiating with a sales person (be prepared for them to follow you out to your car trying to get you back in). If you feel bad about it, just realize that it's just more practice for them too. It is important that you practice walking out in real life, so that the experience on the day it matters most is not new to you.  Take the entire day off of work, push everything else off of your schedule for the day of real negotiating and bring some snacks and water. Don't bring your kids or any other distractions. Turn off your cell phone unless you must have it on and be on guard.

Your initial offer should cut out all their profit and almost be insulting. You want the car at cost. Make that your goal and, though it won't happen, you'll get closer to it than you thought you could. You might settle with the senior sales person,  but the haggling has not even started. You should be on high alert when they offer you a pen. I had to take the pen from my wife's hand the first time she bought a new car, because she was too nervous and under their spell. Don't let anything on the contract go unchecked or be blank. You must read the whole contract if you don't want them to sneak in extra profit for themselves. When I went through my wife's contract, I caught several mistakes that would have cost us between hundreds and thousands extra. One mistake was on a part of the contract (OPTION to waive finance charge) that was supposed to allow us to bring in our own loan within a certain period of time( we went to our bank before ever setting foot on a dealership and got approved for a very inexpensive loan). If you don't catch something like that, which is a single and not very catchy line, you could end up owing the difference between the interest your bank charges and the interest of the loan you sign for at the dealer.If that doesn't make sense, just do some research on loan agreements.

Nothing's easy in world of transportation except Sunday drives on lonely roads. You will save more when you put work into saving. By doing research and planning ahead, you can save much. No matter how much you plan, though, always be ready for something that will jump up out of nowhere like a dear on that lonely Sunday drive.